BATH, BODY & BEAUTY | Is topical weed your skin’s new dream come true?

The evidence grows: Topical weed may be a good skincare move.

Topical cannabis won’t get you high, but the same qualities that give it the potential power to relieve pain and soothe irritation are finding their way into balms, bath soaks and beauty products that may boast anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits.

“The relief from inflammation – that has an application for pain, an application for swelling, an application for redness or itching … and it also has an application for dark circles and skin irritations,” says James Kennedy, cofounder of Apothecanna, which has been making all-natural, organic, cannabis-infused lotions and oils since 2009.

But do they work?

There’s growing clinical evidence to support that they can.

The anti-inflammatory power of cannabis is well-established when inhaled or ingested, which speeds cannabinoids into the bloodstream. Weed topicals, which soak into the dermal layer but don’t cross into the blood, have not been as well-researched – though a 2015 clinical study involving mice demonstrated that CBD, in particular, decreased skin inflammation by binding with subdermal CB2 receptors.

These effects are thought to occur because the skin has its own endocannabinoid system (ECS), with CB1 and CB2 receptors present in various layers, which interact with cannabinoids to regulate processes such as inflammation and immune responses.

Precisely what healing powers cannabis topicals may possess aren’t fully known just yet, and scientists are still exploring its benefits and applications. Recent studies suggest promising avenues for treating conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. For example, a 2022 study highlighted CBD’s potential to reduce sebum production and inflammatory cytokines, supporting its role in managing acne. Additionally, emerging research has investigated the antimicrobial properties of cannabinoids, which could further their usefulness in treating skin infections and irritations.

“We’re still discovering ways to use our products,” adds fellow Apothecanna cofounder Joie Meffert.

Your mileage may vary.

“Putting cannabinoids on your skin, in my firsthand experience, literally takes the wrinkles away,” says Maya Elisabeth, founder of San Francisco-based Om Edibles and creator of the brand’s potentially wrinkle-removing Rose Body Oil. “It’s insane. This plant just keeps giving and giving and giving.”

There’s a wide range of individual responses to all types of cannabis therapies. But this much we know: The endocannabinoid system is at play in nearly every skin function, says Dr. Tamas Biro, director of immunology at the University of Debrecen, Hungary, and adviser to a cannabis biotech research company.

“This includes the skin barrier, which is very important for moisture retention, sebum production, and sweat-gland function, as well as skin-centric sensory functions such as pain and itch,” he told Elle magazine in 2017. “But perhaps most important, it appears that the endocannabinoid system controls skin inflammation — so if an inflammatory or irritation challenge assaults the skin, the endocannabinoid system fights against it.”

That anti-inflammatory effect, along with cannabis’s role in sebum regulation, makes topical weed a potential powerhouse cosmetic ingredient, Biro says. Early lab tests show topical CBD can prevent the inflammation and oil overproduction associated with breakouts.

We repeat: They won’t get you high.

Because most marijuana-infused skincare will not enter the bloodstream, they’re ideal “gateway” products for curious new cannabis consumers and the broader marketplace: those who have no interest in consuming cannabis or getting high but are seeking a topical solution for pain or smoother, healthier skin.

“We love to create topicals for people because not everybody wants to consume things all the time, with their mouth, and some people prefer not to be altered at all,” says Elisabeth of Om Edibles. “Some people just want to be able to find relief.”

Unlike transdermal cannabis patches, whose active ingredients can penetrate the skin to enter the bloodstream and may provide some mild intoxication, topical cannabis lotions, balms, and sprays don’t cross the dermal layer. Transdermal products, which deliver cannabinoids systemically, are often used for managing chronic pain, nausea, or sleep disorders. In contrast, topical products remain localized to a specific region, interacting with receptors in that area to provide targeted relief without altering the user’s mental state.

“These products stay localized to that specific region and are responding to receptors in that region, so it’s tremendously effective to use a topical cannabis product,” says Kennedy.

And they’re not just for vanity’s sake.

Anti-inflammatory power also means less pain and swelling, which is how Apothecanna’s best-selling product, the Extra Strength Relief Crème, became a surprise hit in one Steamboat Springs, Colorado, senior community. Elderly folks there found it eased their arthritis pain like nothing else.

“One dispensary called and asked if we were running some kind of promotion because they had so many seniors coming in for the product,” Kennedy recalls. Today, the brand is as popular with health enthusiasts as it is with seniors and regular cannabis consumers.

But beauty can be only skin-deep.

The plant’s antioxidant effects show promise for smoothing skin, improving skin tone and fighting everyday environmental toxins and free-radical exposure. “Basically, antioxidants cancel free radicals,” Elisabeth says.

Even corporate cosmetics companies are embracing cannabis topicals for its skin-soothing effects. A few years ago, Estee Lauder’s Origins line introduced a face mask infused with cannabis seed oil. A GQ writer wrote in 2018 that he was experimenting with cannabis-infused products and appreciated the texture and moisturizing power of Apothecanna’s Everyday Face and Body Oil.

“I use it every day from head to toe,” Elisabeth says.

Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this article by Eaze and Eaze customers are published for educational and informational purposes only, and are not intended to serve as or substitute for a diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Please consult a local physician or other health care professional for your specific health care and/or medical needs or concerns.